We were proud to take part in a special Masterpiece Tea to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the outstanding program that originated at WGBH, the flagship Public Television station in Boston.
Guests were honored with an English Tea, and The Brass Sisters presented a brief Tea-Torial on taking tea.
We brought some of our tea antiques — a traveling tea set in a wicker basket from the early 20th century, our mother’s English Edwardian tea caddy, and a silver tea strainer from the early 1800s. Sheila made tiny teacups and saucers from some of our chocolate molds, and we presented them on a three-tiered English tea tray.
As promised, we are posting some of our notes on the history of tea in England and a concise bibliography of books on tea.
We love taking tea. We believe it is one of the ways to renew ourselves. We love the ceremony of the teacup and the tea table. Whether taken with friends and family or in solitude, taking a cup of tea comforts us in times of stress and helps us celebrate in times of joy. We suggest that you take the time to drink a cup of tea with someone you care about.
After researching the taking of tea by reading again several of the books on tea in our cookbook library, we decided to title our presentation: A Touch of Class or Tea and Controversy because taking tea crossed all class lines in England and because so many controversies about taking tea exist – everything from whether one should let the tea water come to a rolling boil to whether to pour milk into the tea cup before adding the tea.
It always surprises us how many mild-mannered tea drinkers are willing to launch a campaign over whether or not they like black tea, green tea, or fruited teas; whether to take sugar or any other additives with their tea, and whether to use a tea ball for their tea leaves.
We can’t pretend to answer all of these questions, nor can we take sides. We leave it up to you and your personal taste.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF TAKING ENGLISH TEA
• The first shipment of tea arrived in England in 1658.
• In 1662 Charles II married Catherine of Braganza, a Portuguese princess, who carried the custom of drinking tea from the Portuguese court to the English Court.
• Tea was originally served in coffee houses in England.
• Critics of tea feared that “Chambermaids have lost their bloom because of drinking tea” and “gin and tea were a problem for the English people.”
• Until the 1830s, tea came to England from China. Shortly after, England began to explore areas for raising tea in Ceylon and East Pakistan.
• Fast clipper ships brought tea to America with the opening of the Orient.
• Locked Tea Canisters or Tea Caddies were used for storing tea. Caddy comes from the Malay word kati, which means one pound. A tea caddy usually held one pound, two ounces of tea (see Michael Smith, The Afternoon Tea Book.)
TERMS FOR MAKING TEA
One could do a brew-up, a mash, or draw a pot of tea depending on where in England one made one’s tea. One could also steep his/her tea or refer to a pot of tea as a “wet.” We still talk of infusing a pot of tea and decanting a pot of tea.
English men and women became intrigued with tea.
Around 1840, Anna, the Seventh Duchess of Bedford, began to ask that a pot of tea and a tray of cakes and sandwiches be brought to her boudoir around 4:00, in the afternoon. She was experiencing a sinking feeling because custom now dictated that English men and women partake of a hearty breakfast at 8:00 AM and refrain from eating until 8:00 PM or later when dinner would be served.
Eventually, screens in the boudoir were pushed aside. Friends gathered openly to take tea. However, tea drinking for men was mainly done in teashops, while women initiated the custom of “At Homes” when they received their lady friends and family members and served the English tea as we know it.
Afternoon tea became a ritual with servings of bread and butter, Seed Cake, Chocolate Cake with Walnuts, Dundee cake, delicate pastries, and tiny sandwiches.
Taking tea led to all manner of new terms:
• Tea Caddy
• Caddy Spoon
• Teaspoon
• Mote Spoon
• Tea Ball
• Tea Strainer
• Tea Tray
• Tea Table
• Tea Gown
• Tea Dance (Thé Dansant)
• Tea Sandwich
In 1862, Dr. Dauglish invented the recipe for aerated bread which was leavened with carbon dioxide. He opened teashops under the name The Aerated Bread Company or the ABC Shops.
1n 1894, J. Lyons and Co. opened their line of tea shops offering a cup of afternoon tea and something to go with it for low prices so that every one could enjoy the ritual of taking tea. The young ladies who served the tea were known as “nippies” because they nipped around serving tea to customers.
In the Victorian and Edwardian eras, ladies served their friends China or Indian tea. Their tea caddies contained two compartments, one for each type of tea
Early tea caddies had three compartments. The middle one contained a glass that was used for blending the teas. Because the glass was often broken, the middle compartment was then used for storing sugar, which was also a costly commodity.
After serving afternoon tea and with her guests gone, the lady of the house would call for two basins of water, one containing a mild soap and the other clear. She would wash her delicate teacups herself and dry them with a soft cloth.
Taking tea in England crossed all classes. The very rich enjoyed a dainty afternoon tea. Workers of the poorest classes were lucky to have a tea break and a bit of bread and dripping for their tea. Middle-class families or those in trade had a high tea, which was served around 6:00, in the evening and took the place of dinner. It was a hearty repast containing some of the sweets that would have been served at afternoon tea, but thicker slices of bread and butter, potted shrimp, meat pies, eggs incased in sausage and fried, as well as all manner of buns and crumpets dripping with butter.
At the beginning of the 20th century it was considered proper for ladies to take tea in elegant hotels and in cozy tearooms.
SOME OF THE HIGHLIGHTS OF TAKING TEA
• The expanding toasting fork becomes popular for toasting bread and crumpets by the fire.
• Thomas Sullivan, an American tea merchant, gives away samples of his teas in little silk bags. His clients use the “tea bags” to make their tea and ask for more “tea bags.”
• Thomas Lipton starts adding sayings to the tea tags used for his tea bags.
• Iced tea is created when Richard Blechynden, a representative for tea growers, pours tea over ice in 1904 at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition, in St. Louis, when patrons refuse a hot cup of tea during the hot weather.
HOW TO BREW A GOOD POT OF TEA
We prefer brewing tea in china, porcelain, stoneware or glass teapots. Brewing tea in a metal teapot might give one’s tea a metallic taste.
We consulted several books on tea for brewing guidelines, but we found that Michael Smith, the author of The Afternoon Tea Book, provided clear simple instructions. He was the consultant for the Masterpiece television series, Upstairs, Downstairs and The Duchess of Duke Street.
1. Warm your teapot by pouring boiling water into it.
2. Use 1 teaspoon of tea per person and 1 teaspoon for the pot.
3. Bring freshly drawn water to the boil. Do not allow it to rattle once it boils, as this rids the water of air.
4. Empty the water used to heat the teapot and take the pot to the kettle and pour in the boiling water. He suggests that one determines how much water one will need for the pot.
5. He suggests 1 ¼ pints pf boiling water for each ounce of tea, more water for China tea.
6. Steep from 3 to 6 minutes, according to leaf size. Less time for small leaves, more time for large leaves (many people vote for 3 minutes).
7. Always use cold milk.
Taking tea has always been a bit controversial. Since tea started out being very expensive, it was sometimes smuggled, sometimes adulterated, and it was often taxed. We don’t have to remind anyone of The Boston Tea Party.
Some of the controversy centers on some very simple questions:
• Should one warm the cups?
• Should the water be brought to just a boil, not a rolling boil?
• Should milk be poured into the cup before the addition of tea?
• Should two teapots be used instead of one? Mrs. Isabella Beeton, the 19th century author of The Book of Household Management, suggests decanting freshly made tea into a second warmed pot so that the tea doesn’t sit and become bitter in the first pot.
A BRIEF BIBLIOGRAPHY OF BOOKS ABOUT TEA
Barnes, Emily. If Teacups Could Talk, Sharing a cup of Kindness With Treasured Friends. Eugene, Oregon: Harvest House Publications, 1994.
Bailey, Adrian. The Cooking of the British Isles. New York: Time-Life, Inc., 1969.
Manchester, Carole. French Tea, The Pleasures of the Table. New York: Hearst Books, 1993.
Simpson, Helen. The London Ritz Book of Afternoon Tea, The Art & Pleasures of Taking Tea. New York: Arbor House, 1986.
Simpson, Helen. The London Ritz Book of English Breakfasts. New York: William Morrow, 1988.
Smith, Michael. The Afternoon Tea Book. New York: Atheneum, 1986.
Stella, Alain. Mariage Freres, French Tea, Three Centuries of Savoir-Faire. Paris: Flammarion and Mariage Freres, 2003.
Whitaker, Jan. Tea at the Blue Lantern Inn, A Social History of the Tea Room Craze in America. New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2002.